Many ingredients claim to moisturize your skin, but dermatologists say squalene is the real deal. It’s effective, lightweight, and works for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
But what exactly is squalene? Keep reading to learn about its potential benefits, which products you’ll find it in, how to use it, and more.
Squalene is a lipid (fat) produced naturally in the skin, says the Vancouver-based dermatologist
Katie Beleznay, MD. It’s added to many skin-care products to improve skin moisture and reduce redness and irritation.
Skin-care products use a hydrogenated form of squalene because it’s more stable and less likely to become rancid, Dr. Beleznay says. As the ingredient changes, the spelling of its name does, too, which is why you’ll find squalane (with an “a”) listed on skin-care product labels.
Squalene used in cosmetics once came from shark liver oil.
But today, squalene is often derived from plants.
“Squalene is a moisturizing ingredient that’s generally well tolerated by all skin types and can be a great multitasker for your skin,” says Beleznay. Here are the potential benefits of adding squalene to your skin-care regimen.
Squalene Hydrates Skin
Squalene is an emollient, says Beleznay. An emollient is a moisturizer ingredient that forms a thin layer that traps moisture inside your skin and attracts moisture from outside your skin.
Because squalene in skin-care products is similar to the natural oils present in the skin, it’s better able to penetrate the skin barrier (the outermost layer). “If you have an oil that’s similar biologically to oils already in the skin, it dissolves easily and quickly through the top layer, where it can make a meaningful difference in skin,” explains Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in West Islip, New York.
The ingredient can also be used on skin that tends to be finicky when it comes to moisturizers, such as sensitive or oily skin, Dr. Mariwalla says.
Squalene Is Safe for Acne-Prone Skin
Some skin-care products contain ingredients that clog pores and contribute to acne. But squalene is noncomedogenic, meaning it’s safe for acne-prone skin, says Mariwalla.
The ingredient also has anti-inflammatory properties that may reduce redness and swelling from acne.
Still, you can’t assume that every product with squalene is suitable for acne-prone skin. Read the label to ensure the entire formulation is noncomedogenic.
Squalene Reduces Irritation
“Beyond locking in moisture, squalene strengthens the skin barrier, reduces water loss, and soothes irritation, making it a reliable choice as a moisturizer,” says Helyn Alvarez, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas.
In addition, you may be using other products that target signs of aging and contain active ingredients (ingredients that address a specific skin concern), such as
retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, and
vitamin C, which can cause redness and irritation.
A moisturizer with squalene may help these actives penetrate deeper into skin while counteracting the potential irritation these ingredients can cause, says Dr. Alvarez. This way, you can keep using products that treat your complexion concerns without side effects like dryness, redness, or flaking.
Squalene May Provide Antioxidants
Older research suggests squalene has
antioxidant properties, which may help mop up free radicals (unstable molecules made in the body after exposure to environmental toxins like cigarette smoke and ultraviolet light) that can damage the skin.
These antioxidants may also help repair the skin barrier, strengthening it to protect against future damage, says Mariwalla.
In addition, preliminary animal research suggests squalene may help polyphenols (plant-based compounds with antioxidant properties) penetrate deeper into the skin, where they can do the most good.
“Squalane is an excellent hydrating ingredient that can be beneficial in a variety of products, though most commonly found in moisturizers and facial oils,” says Beleznay. Here are several skin-care products that incorporate squalene.
- Serums Serums are lightweight liquid moisturizers that deliver concentrated active ingredients to address common skin complaints, including signs of aging.
- Oils These moisturizing products contain 100 percent squalene oil or are made with a combination of squalene oil and other ingredients.
- Moisturizers Moisturizers are creams and lotions that hydrate the skin.
- Cleansers Use these to cleanse the skin before applying other skin-care products.
- Eye Creams These are moisturizing creams and lotions that are gentle enough for the sensitive skin around the eye area.
- Face Masks Face masks are products spread onto the skin and left on for a set amount of time (sometimes overnight) for a more concentrated dose of active ingredients.
- Toners Wipe these liquid products over the skin after cleansing but before applying serums or moisturizers. The goal of a toner is to remove excess oil and dead skin cells and add moisture.
Squalene is a component of natural oils in the skin and is not known to cause side effects. “Squalene doesn’t play poorly in the sandbox — you can combine the ingredient with practically anything,” says Mariwalla.
Remember, other ingredients in skin-care products may irritate the skin or clog pores. For example, retinol can cause skin dryness, while fragrances and dyes may trigger allergic reactions.
Squalane is considered safe to use in pregnancy, says Beleznay.
On the other hand, unless you’re using 100 percent pure squalene oil, your product will have other ingredients. Check the product label to ensure you’re not using anything unsafe. Steer clear of fragrances, phthalates,
parabens, oxybenzone, and triclosan.
Retinoids also shouldn’t be used during
pregnancy.
“Squalene is somewhat unique as it acts as an emollient but also has antioxidant properties,” says Beleznay.
Other emollients that have skin soothing and moisturizing properties include
ceramides or shea butter, but Beleznay notes that squalene is more lightweight. Some emollients (such as petroleum jelly and mineral oil) are even thick and greasy, which may not suit all skin types or concerns.
Squalene is a lightweight moisturizer that’s added to many types of skin-care products. It’s safe for all skin types and works well with other ingredients. Here’s how to incorporate squalene into your daily skin-care regimen.
When to Use Squalene
Squalene can be used in the morning, at night, or both.
If you’re using a moisturizer with squalene, apply the product to the skin after washing. If you’re using a product with an active ingredient like retinol, salicylic acid, or alpha hydroxy acid (often found in acne treatments and products that address signs of aging), apply the squalane moisturizer last. To reduce the number of products, find ones that use squalene alongside your active ingredients of choice.
If you use a lotion or cream with SPF, you don’t need to apply another moisturizer in the morning, says Mariwalla. But a squalene serum may help your SPF or makeup glide on more smoothly.
Beleznay considers toners and face masks optional additions to your skin-care routine. Still, you might use a squalene-containing toner or face mask if your skin needs more hydration. In that case, apply the toner after cleansing. When you use a face mask depends on the product. Some face masks are left on the skin for an amount of time and then washed off, while others are meant to be left on the skin overnight like a traditional moisturizer. Check your product label for instructions.
How Often Should You Use Squalene?
A moisturizer containing squalene can be used one or two times per day.
In the morning, apply a moisturizer with SPF, says Mariwalla. If you have dry skin, mix a squalene serum with your makeup (such as a foundation) to add hydration and help your makeup go on more smoothly.
Evening is the ideal time to use squalene-containing skin-care products because it replenishes skin’s moisture during sleep, says Alvarez. “It can also complement active treatments like retinols or exfoliants by soothing the skin and minimizing dryness and irritation,” she adds. Apply squalene on top of any products that contain active ingredients, such as those that address acne or signs of aging. Alvarez adds that squalene moisturizers should be the final step in your nighttime skin-care routine to seal in moisture.
The Takeaway
- Squalene is derived from a fat produced naturally in our skin and is added to various skin-care products to improve moisture, redness, and irritation.
- Research suggests squalene effectively hydrates skin, won’t clog pores, provides antioxidants, and tames irritation associated with active ingredients that address acne and signs of aging.
- Squalene is safe during pregnancy and can be combined with other skin-care ingredients, making it suitable for many skin types and concerns.
- Apply squalene once or twice daily after using products that contain active ingredients that address skin concerns like acne or signs of aging.
Emily Davis
James Bennett
David Thompson
Susan Bennett
Chloe Jenkins
Marcus Vance